Tent camping in the shadow of the Matterhorn, Switzerland

Hornlihutte Trail: Ultimate Hike To See Switzerland’s Epic Matterhorn

For the hardcore adventurer, Switzerland is truly paradise. It offers tons of incredible outdoor activities worthy of any bucket list. Even with so many options, the Hornlihutte Matterhorn Trail above Zermatt belongs at the very top of the list. Not only does the hike offer jaw-dropping views of the Matterhorn up close, but it doesn’t require any climbing or technical skills. As long as you’re not afraid of heights, the trail to Hornlihutte is readily accessible to any able-bodied hiker who’s reasonably fit.

Think you’ve got what it takes to tackle this daunting trail?

Read on to find out how much it costs, how to access the Hornlihutte Trail, and the best time to visit. Plus we’ll share our secret about where you can camp in the shadow of the Matterhorn.

Matterhorn peak from the Hornlihutte Trail above Zermatt
Wondering how to see the Matterhorn? The Hornlihutte Trail absolutely ROCKS!

Trail Info for Hörnlihütte Hike

Most people who do the Hornlihutte hike start in Zermatt, take a cable car up to the alpine lake of Schwarzsee, and start hiking there. The trail officially starts near the lake and ends at Hörnlihütte, which is German for Hornli Hut. From the hut, you’ll backtrack down the same way you hiked up.

You can hike all the way from Zermatt if you want, but that trail is long and less spectacular. Since we’d just completed the 5-Seenweg trail right before hiking to Hornlihutte, we were more than happy to catch the lift from Zermatt to Schwarzsee.

Located on the lower slopes of the Matterhorn, the Hornli Hut chalet is the last alpine hut for hikers on the mountain. It functions as the Matterhorn base camp for climbers attempting to summit the peak. Only those with technical climbing skills and gear continue above Hornlihutte.

Trail distance, roundtrip9.1 km (5.7 miles)
Zermatt altitude1608 m (5276 ft)
Schwarzsee elevation2579 m (8461 ft)
Hornlihutte elevation3260 m (10,695 ft)
Elevation difference+681 m (+2234 ft)
Best time to visitJuly, August, Sept
Sunset at the Matterhorn from Hornli Ridge in the Swiss Alps
Sunset from the Hornlihutte Trail below the Matterhorn is unforgettable.

In this German-speaking part of Switzerland, the trail is often called the Hörnlihütte-Matterhorn, or Hörnli Trail (Nr. 27).

Once you’re on the trail, you can follow the sign posts that say Hörnliweg.

Language Tip: In German, vowels like “o” and “u” with the umlaut (two little dots above it) are spelled “oe” and “ue” in English. For simplicity, we’ve shortened special characters in this post to just a single vowel: ie, Hörnlihütte is Hornlihutte.

Our Zermatt to Hornlihutte Trail Map

Click on upper right icon to enlarge map.

How to Get to Zermatt, Switzerland

Since Zermatt is a car-free town for tourists, the best option for transportation is to either take a train or to drive and park your car in the nearby town of Tasch, which is 5 km from Zermatt. If you’re traveling on a really tight budget, you can park in one of the structures further from the train station in Tasch and walk to the station.

The most convenient option for parking is the Matterhorn Terminal Tasch. This is where we parked for the three days we hiked and camped in and around Zermatt. The Matterhorn Terminal Tasch has 2100 parking spaces and costs about 15 CHF per day.

You can buy train tickets for the short ride from Tasch to Zermatt directly at the Matterhorn Terminal Tasch. Or if you know your travel dates and times in advance, you can also book your tickets on the Matterhorn Gotthard Bahn online. We just bought our tickets same day and the train was mostly empty.

Expect to pay 16.80 CHF for a round-trip adult ticket, unless you have the Swiss Half-Fare Card or one of the Swiss Travel Passes.

Scenery from train from Tasch to Zermatt, Switzerland
The ride to Zermatt takes 10-15 minutes and drops off passengers in the center of town.

Budget Travel Tip: We can’t stress enough that it’s worth it to buy the Swiss Half-Fare Travelcard or one of the other discount cards in advance. It’ll likely end up saving you a lot of money on public transportation in Switzerland.

How to Get from Zermatt to Schwarzsee

Once you’re in Zermatt, you’ll need to get across town to the Matterhorn Express cable car station. It’ll zip you up to Schwarzsee in just 20 minutes.

It’s about 1.6 km from the main Zermatt train station to the Matterhorn Express station, but it’s worth walking to be able to see Zermatt on foot.

We bought our tickets in person at the lift station, but you can also buy Matterhorn Express tickets online in advance.

Matterhorn Express cable car from Zermatt to Schwarzsee
The Matterhorn Express climbs up to Schwarzsee from the town of Zermatt.

When you fall into line to buy tickets for the Matterhorn Express, be prepared to cringe at the rather hefty price tag!

The cost of a single roundtrip adult ticket was 50 CHF (roughly the same in USD or EUR) at the time of this writing. If you’re concerned about the cost, check their website for updated prices before you book any travel.

The Matterhorn Express first stops at the Furi Station, but don’t get off there. For the Hornlihutte Matterhorn hike, stay on the cable car to the very top.

Matterhorn Express cable car station at Schwarzsee, Switzerland
The final destination for the Matterhorn Express is the Zermatt-Schwarzsee Station.

While you’re buying your cable car tickets, it’s a good idea to ask about the current trail conditions for any Matterhorn hikes. Even in mid-summer, it’s not uncommon for the trails to still be covered in snow and ice, and Matterhorn weather is unpredictable and harsh.

We would never encourage anyone to hike in unsafe conditions. On the other hand, if it’s early in the season, be prepared for dire warnings about the trail conditions. Take them with a grain of salt.

When we first asked about Hornlihutte Trail conditions at the Matterhorn Express ticket office, the ticket seller told us the trail was impassable because it was still buried under snow and ice. She wouldn’t advise we hike it.

Wouldn’t advise it isn’t the same as closed, though.

We asked if it was possible to hike any part of the trail. She conceded that it was possible to start up the trail and just turn back when the conditions became “unsafe.”

When we then asked if we could camp at the base of the peak, she looked perplexed. She was quite clear that there were no overnight accommodations available.

We explained we were experienced in the outdoors and came prepared. We had a suitable tent, warm clothing, food and water, and emergency gear. We were more than prepared to camp near the Matterhorn.

She remained skeptical as to why we’d want to camp up there, but rather grudgingly acknowledged that it was allowed.

Cha-CHING.  We were in business!

Lodging Tip: If you want to see sunset and sunrise from the Matterhorn hut but aren’t able to wild camp like we did, you can book an overnight stay at Hornlihutte. It has 149 beds. The Hornli Hut price is 150 CHF per adult, 75 CHF per child.

Hiking the Hornlihutte Matterhorn Trail

1. The trail starts at Schwarzsee lake.

When you reach the final summit on the Matterhorn Express, you’ll step off the cable car and almost immediately see Schwarzsee, or Black Lake. The Hornlihutte Trail officially starts from Schwarzsee, which is not to be confused with a lake by the same name in Fribourg canton.

Schwarzsee lake in summer in the Swiss Alps
Schwarzsee lies at the foot of the Matterhorn, high above Zermatt.

Schwarzsee is nestled among the Swiss peaks at an elevation of nearly 2600 meters.

Before the Matterhorn Express cable car opened in 1956, folks had to walk from Zermatt up to Schwarzsee, a hike that would typically take several hours and climb nearly a thousand meters from Zermatt’s elevation of 1600+ meters.

Now it’s just a quick and scenic cable car ride.

Views from Schwarzsee-Zermatt cable car, Switzerland
Those who don’t want to do the hike are still treated to gorgeous views of the Alps and Gorner Glacier from the cable car station.

Travel Tip: Even in late June, the direct rays of an intense summer sun can’t chase the chill from the air. Make sure to bring warm clothes and to layer. Matterhorn weather conditions change fast, and the peak can be freezing when it’s warm in Zermatt.

2. The Maria zum Schnee Chapel is worth a peak inside.

The only structure on the shores of Schwarzsee is a small country chapel called the Maria zum Schnee. In English, it means “Our Lady of the Snows.”

The simple chapel was built in the early 1700s after two locals became lost on a nearby glacier in thick fog. After they were rescued, they were so grateful to be alive that they built the chapel.

Maria zum Schnee Chapel reflected in Schwarzsee lake above Zermatt, Swiss Alps
Click to Purchase on Fine Art America
Our Lady of the Snows Chapel at Schwarzsee in Switzerland
A short trail leads to the Maria zum Schnee Chapel from the cable car station.

Nowadays the chapel is commonly visited by pilgrims and mountaineers who stop by to give thanks after successfully climbing the Matterhorn.

If you’re not sure you can make it to Hornli Hut, it might be worth popping inside to say a few words, if ya know what I mean.

A mountaineer bows in prayer in a painting inside the chapel.

Painting inside Maria zum Schnee Chapel, Schwarzsee, Switzerland

Some say that a shrine to the Mother of God stood on this same spot long before the chapel was built. It’s a testament to the deep respect locals have always had for this mountain and her dangers.

Travel Tip: Make sure to keep the chapel door closed to keep out the local sheep!

3. Kids can do the Matterhorn hike.

If you have kids and are wondering if the Hornlihutte Matterhorn hike is doable, it is. At least according to the two families we met on the trail – which is almost everyone we met on the trail.

A few minutes after starting up the trail, we passed a couple with a tiny baby on their way down.

The baby made eyes at Touille, our rat terrier. She’s tiny and looks like a chihuahua so she tends to be a kid magnet. Touille fell in love immediately since eye contact is an invitation to her heart.

While Travis chatted with the nice Swedish couple, I marveled at their moxie in taking a 3-month old on such a precarious trail and the additional effort it must take for them to do the same kind of hikes we love.

Huge props to them for their sense of adventure!

Nice couple on the trail to Hornlihutte, Swiss Alps
Travis chats with an adventurous Swedish couple just above Schwarzsee.

Obviously, you know your kids better than anyone, and not all kids are capable of doing this hike.

If your child is small enough to carry though, it’s an option. And if your kids are accustomed to challenging hikes at high elevation, it’s definitely doable.

4. Keep an eye on the time, and know the cable car schedule.

Hikers who want to allow enough time to do the entire Hornlihutte-Matterhorn Trail in one day should plan to start early in the morning.

We recommend that overnight campers take the lift up later in the evening. That way you’ll have the trail largely to yourself. As you’re hiking up, you’re likely to pass only a few people – the last few stragglers hiking down. With luck, you’ll also be treated to a nice sunset over the peak.

It was nearly 5 pm by the time we started the hike near Schwarzsee, so we ran into just a few hikers and one very chatty family from Utah. The husband regaled us with tales of their vacation in Switzerland and of their extensive travels for quite some time.

Next to me, Travis was fidgeting, appearing increasingly antsy. I thought he must be either ready to continue hiking or he had to pee.

Finally, he gently interrupted the gentleman to let him know they were about to miss the last cable car of the night back to Zermatt. Unless they wanted to spend the night up there with us or hike all the way day, they might want to scoot.

After a few seconds of stunned silence, the husband thanked us heartily, then the foursome broke into an anxious dash down the steep trail.

We didn’t see them anywhere on the trail later that evening or the next day, so presumably they made the lift.

5. The trail conditions are steep and rough.

With the descent of the chatty Utah family, silence returned to the mountains.

We labored up the steep trail, finally besting the worst section – a nearly vertical incline on a heavily graded gravel road.

Hornlihutte hike to the Matterhorn in the Swiss Alps
Luckily, the most unexciting stretch of steep, gravel trail is short.
Awesome steep section of Hornlihutte trail in Swiss Alps
Crazy steep section of Hornlihutte trail to the Matterhorn

Less than a kilometer past that, our route branched off onto a right proper trail with switchbacks set into the rocky cliff face.

For some of you, this next stretch will be the most challenging. Some sections of the trail along here are bridged with metal grating and handrails where you can look straight down hundreds of feet to the gravel field below.

Other sections with smaller gaps in the trail are merely traversable via a couple of rough-hewn boards laid out side by side.

Hornlihutte Matterhorn Trail in the Swiss Alps
You can see the Matterhorn from much of the Hornlihutte Trail.
Two Small Potatoes hiking the Matterhorn in Switzerland
Grating on the harrowing Matterhorn trail in Switzerland

6. Hörnli Ridge is the final ascent to Hörnli Hut.

Though the total distance of the Hornlihutte Matterhorn Trail isn’t particularly long, it’s slow going.

We hiked for over an hour before cresting the very lower portion of Hornli Ridge. From there, we could see the main trail to the hut continuing at a more gradual incline in a direct line between us and the Matterhorn before again rising in a series of sharp switchbacks in the distance.

Beyond that, the trail completely disappeared in stripes of snow and ice.

Hornli Ridge below the Matterhorn in Switzerland
The knife edge of Hornli Ridge separates grassy meadow on one side and an unstable shale slope on the other.

With no likely camping spots in sight further up the trail, we sat for a few minutes to consider our options. I’d had my heart set on reaching the hut and camping there.

Though the mountain hut typically hosts hikers and mountaineers overnight, we knew it was currently closed for renovations and likely deserted.

I was disappointed to realize we clearly wouldn’t make it up to the hut, not only because of the trail conditions above, but because the wind was likely far more ferocious at the hut’s 3200+ meter (10,700 ft) elevation and exposed location.

Another option was to hike back down to camp in one of the grassy fields near Schwarzsee. In doing so, we would drop nearly 300 meters (1000 feet) of elevation and possibly escape the brutally cold wind that was whipping along the exposed ridge.

Or we could try to find a place for our tent somewhere near Hornli Ridge but protected from the wind. Realizing both of us very much wanted to camp in the shadow of the peak, we chose this option.

Venturing out onto the knife-edge shale slope, I settled in the sun to wait with Touille while Travis scouted along the ridge for camping possibilities.

Hornli Ridge below the Matterhorn, Switzerland
Touille and I rest along Hornli Ridge while Travis scouts for a flat spot to pitch our tent.
Tips for hiking Matterhorn trail with dogs, Switzerland
Your canine hiking buddies will appreciate a rest in Hornli Ridge’s small alpine meadow.

Camping in the Shadow of the Matterhorn

1. Options for Matterhorn camping are limited.

Those interested in Matterhorn camping should know that options for pitching even a tiny two-person tent along the trail are not great. Much of the trail is narrow, bordered on one side by a sheer cliff straight up and on the other by a steep drop straight down.

A sign further up the trail warns that camping is prohibited, though it’s allowed along the trail below the sign.

I was still mulling over the likelihood we’d have to backtrack to find a camping spot when Travis reappeared over the ridge. Sporting a huge grin, he gestured for me to follow.

Literally, just feet from us on the other side of the ridge where Touille and I had been resting, a long, narrow, grassy meadow ran part of the length of the ridge. It seemed quite bizarre to both of us to find such an alpine meadow in the midst of the desolate rock landscape surrounding us, but there it was.

We had found our home away from home for the night, so we set about exploring the ridge before setting up camp.

Wild camping Matterhorn Switzerland
Home is where you stake it!
Wild camping in the Swiss Alps near the Matterhorn
Our tent lies in a small flat”ish” spot below Hornli Ridge.

If you make it to this point along Hornli Ridge, pause to look far, far, far across the valley.

On an adjacent mountainside, a mystery building – possibly a chapel, is visible. It’s just a speck of white roughly in the middle of our photo below.

We were amazed by both its location on the impossibly steep slopes and how it’s thoroughly dwarfed by the massive 3000+ meter peaks surrounding it.

Mystery chapel in the Alps from Hornli Ridge
Can you see the tiny white mystery building on the adjacent hillside?

After scoping out the area, we realized that despite the grassy meadow, the back side of the ridge was still really steep. The flattest spot just happened to be towards the end of the ridge where it narrowed, sandwiched between the ridge line and a drop off.

Since the ridge sheltered our tent considerably from the wind and we had a comfortable buffer of solid ground surrounding it, we were in no danger of getting blown off the ridge.


Wild camping Matterhorn in summer, Two Small Potatoes Travel
Even without the Matterhorn, the surrounding Alps make it worth camping.
Camping in the shadow of the Matterhorn
We’re finally able to check off Matterhorn camping from our bucket list.

Camping Tip: We lucked out in finding a place to pitch our tent, but our advice for anyone following in our footsteps is not to camp along this ridge. Either continue to Hornlihutte for the night, or plan to camp in the grassy fields below.

2. Pack in plenty of food.

There are no restaurants or services of any kind anywhere near the ridge, so if you’re planning to camp for even just one night, pack in plenty of food.

I set up the tent while Trav boiled water for dinner – the last of our Mountain House meals we’d brought with us from the US. We followed it up with our last MH dessert, something we’d been saving for a special occasion: dark chocolate cheesecake crumble.


Mountain House dinner at the Matterhorn, Two Small Potatoes adventure travel
Food just tastes better after a good hike in the mountains.

Travel Tip: Mountain House is a company based in Oregon that makes fantastic freeze-dried meals for backpacking and emergency preparedness. Just add hot water, wait a few minutes, stir, and a single packet provides a meal for one or two people. They’re the perfect cost-effective, convenient, and healthy option for a trip like this. We used two meals (at $6 each) for dinner and breakfast at the Matterhorn, plus a dessert.

As we watched the sun set over the Matterhorn along Hornli Ridge, I kept feeling like I needed to pinch myself.

Utterly exhausted, we finished dinner, brushed our teeth, and snuggled up in our cozy REI sleeping bags before it was even dark, a rarity for us. I couldn’t bear to zip the fly closed, though, instead peaking out frequently to see the mountain as it changed with the setting sun.

Views of Switzerland’s Mountain of Mountains framed in our tent flap were my last before it was enveloped in inky darkness.

Matterhorn from our tent in the Swiss Alps
Click to Purchase on Fine Art America
Yummy Mountain House dinner camping at the Matterhorn in Switzerland
Breakfast of champions with Matterhorn views, anyone?

Travel Tip: There are NO facilities anywhere near. Be prepared. Bring everything you need, and pack out all your trash. #LeaveNoTrace

3. Be prepared for nasty weather.

Ironically, that night turned out to be one of the worst nights I’ve ever had.

Perhaps stricken with a touch of altitude sickness, unable to sleep, and all too aware that a cliff lay just the other side of our tent, I heard every soft whoosh of wind as a hurricane-force gale. Sure we’d be blown off the ridge at any second, I had no doubt the wind was driven by Zeus himself, intent on shucking the ridge of us – or at the very least, ensuring that we’d remember his fury and never return.

When sunlight finally filtered through the pale yellow of our tent, my eyes were already intently glued on the ceiling. The wind that in the dark of night had roared maliciously, gently rustled the canvas overhead.

Convinced that it was still windy, I emerged from our tent to the splendor of sunrise over the Alps, the Matterhorn bathed in blue skies, and utter silence.

Not a single bird cheeped.

Not a breeze stirred.

Travis still claims it was dead calm all night and that he didn’t hear a thing. Which makes him crazy. There’s no other explanation.

Gorgeous sunrise in the Swiss Alps from Hornlihutte hike
Click to Purchase on Fine Art America

If you plan to camp near the Matterhorn or even just tackle a day-trip, watch the weather. It changes fast year-round, and summer storms aren’t unusual. You could go to sleep after hiking on a warm summer day and wake up to snow. I might’ve dreamt the midnight gale-force winds, but they really can come on suddenly and unexpectedly.

Outdoor Tip: Make sure you have appropriate outdoor gear and emergency supplies before staying on the mountain overnight.

4. If you make it to Hornlihutte, do NOT pitch your tent on the helipad.

We had just finished breaking down camp when we heard the monotonous thwap-thwap-thwap of a helicopter.

Wondering if it was a rescue chopper, we sat and watched as it buzzed almost directly overhead in a course for Hornlihutte on the flanks of the Matterhorn. It hovered briefly over an open area near the hut before landing, taking off again just a few minutes later.

Travis and I turned to each other, eyes wide.

That’s where we were planning to camp up there last night! 

Chopper flying to Hornlihutte beneath the Matterhorn
A chopper flies supplies to the Hornlihutte alpine chalet at the Matterhorn.

As we started back down the trail, we watched a steady stream of choppers delivering supplies to the hut. Though some appeared cargo-free, many hauled massive netted cubic bundles starkly visible against the deep blue sky.

We knew that the hut was closed for renovations, but it hadn’t occurred to us that someone would actually be working on it up there, that they’d need supplies, and that the only way to get them up there would be by chopper.

5. It’s possible to do the Hornli Hut hike with dogs.

Long before we reached Schwarzsee, the weather began to turn and blue skies gave way to grey. With our eye on the angry clouds rolling in, we made good time on the trail down.

At each section of metals grates in the trail, we picked up Touille and carried her across. Her paws are so small, it wasn’t possible for her to walk across it on her own. Her legs would’ve gone right through.

Most of these sections aren’t terribly long, but if you have a big dog, it’s better for them to have protective footwear.

Hornlihutte Matterhorn trail in the Swiss Alps
As you drop elevation, the Gornergletscher (Gorner Glacier) cuts a path into the valley in the distance.

6. Watch for local wildlife around the Matterhorn.

Critters that you might see along the trail include foxes, marmots, red deer, ibexes, and herds of chamois – beautiful wild goat-like animals that are incredible climbers.

We saw a small herd of chamois from Hornli Ridge at sunrise and watched in amazement as they ran horizontally across the steep shale slope below us.

Valais blacknose sheep in the Swiss Alps
Click to Purchase on Fine Art America

Also keep your eyes peeled for the adorable Valais Blacknose sheep.

Unlike sheep in the US that usually have docked tails, these woolly little guys have long black tails. Friendly and curious, they’re a common sight for hikers on the trail.

End of the Hornlihutte Trail at Schwarzsee

Arriving back at Schwarzsee, we again hiked down to its edge.

This time we soaked our tired feet in the cool water before refilling our water canisters. We were delighted to see swarms of fish fingerlings, hungry little baby fish.

Our underwater camera shows how clear the lake is.

Tiny fish underwater at Schwarzsee in the Swiss Alps

Travis excels at catching flies out of the air, so he started tossing them to the voracious little buggers.

Since they were hungry enough to nibble our fingers, I tentatively lowered my feet into the water and enjoyed a free fish pedicure. More than anything, it just tickled.

When we were done playing with the fishies, the Matterhorn Glacier Express whisked us down to Zermatt.

Foodie Recommendation in Zermatt

Back in Zermatt, we walked across town, staring wistfully inside bakery windows and coffee shops with our stomachs growling painfully. Arriving at the train station and unable to ignore our desperate need for coffee any longer, we  popped into the adjacent restaurant, Ristorante Pizzeria Non Solo Treno.

Ordering a couple of their apfelstrudels and the largest cups of take-away coffee that we could, I fidgeted at the counter in anticipation. We were about to miss our train and really didn’t want to have to wait another hour for the next one.

The server saw me glancing at the clock and reassured me that they just needed another few minutes to finish the strudels and not to worry – the train would sit on the platform a bit before leaving.

Apfelstrudel in Zermatt, Switzerland
The apple strudel from Ristorante Pizzeria Non Solo Treno in Zermatt is excellent!

Sure enough, we made our train with our very late breakfast and coffees in hand and sank gratefully into the comfy seats.

Not only were the strudels twice as big as we expected, but the flaky layers of pastry dough were drenched in a creamy, sweet apple goo. Normally the slowest eater in any room, I wolfed mine down before Travis finished and had only the coffee left to savor on our 20-minute train ride back to Tasch and our 2-hour drive home.

Final Thoughts on the Hornlihutte-Matterhorn Trail

The four days we spent Exploring Zermatt: Gateway to the Matterhorn, Hiking the 5-Seenweg Trail, hiking the Hornlihutte Trail, and camping in the shadow of the Matterhorn still seem like a dream.

Though we typically prefer to travel to less touristy destinations and shy away from places surrounded by hype, we’re glad we didn’t avoid Zermatt and the Matterhorn region. It’s surrounded by hype for good reason.

It simply is as rugged, beautiful, charming, and unforgettable as everything you’ve ever heard about  it.

For more information about the area, see the official site for Zermatt Tourism.

How much does it cost to hike the Hornlihutte Trail?

PriceWe Paid
ParkingMatterhorn Terminal Tasch15 CHF per day30 CHF (2 days)
TrainTasch <-> Zermatt24 CHF each12 CHF each
Matterhorn ExpressZermatt <-> Schwarzsee50 CHF each25 CHF each
FoodMountain House, coffee, strudelVaries$21/20 CHF

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